oysters

OYSTERS

Archaeology in Oceania, Vol. 59 (2024): 91–124

DOI: 10.1002/arco.5310

The archaeology of 19th century oyster consumption in Melbourne

Brendan Marshall

-image of the Boon Wurrung women harvesting local flat oysters from around the natural reefs of Port Albert and Western Port bay
you might see them possibly telling the whites to eff off or you might see them helping them and showing them how
-By 1841 the angasi oysters were in such demand that a law was passed banning the Boon Wurrung women from harvesting them
– source https://www.richardcornish.com.au/blog/flinders-oysters
by 1860 these reefs are devastated by demand
-after this oysters are increasingly sourced from sydney or tasmania.


‘Wild oysters that would have been tended to and managed by aboriginal people  supplied the Melbourne market with tonnes of lives oysters from between 1840-1860 and definitely in 1851 demand was greatest and would have accelerated the overfishing’

Native mud oysters thick and flat

the major mud oyster fisheries between 1840

and 1860 were based at Corner Inlet (Port Albert) in

south-east Gippsland and at Western Port Bay


Sydney rock oyster is smaller, more compact and triangulate

Whats with the other shells? From a trip to the seaside? From manual dredging process?
In both reports a distinction is made between food and

non-food shellfish predicated on preservation and

abundance, whereby it was assumed that unidentified shell,

or shell in minor quantities, occurred for non-dietary

reasons. With an NISP of 18321 oyster is at the top of the

food list whereas minor taxa for example, cowrie, cones and

whelks, were relegated to the non-food class as incidentally

collected or ornamental shell (Simons, 2004, pp. 441-2). At

the same time, Simons acknowledges that the unidentified

‘bivalve shells’ (NISP= 711) which comprise most of the

non-food shell were also probably consumed (Simons,

2004, p. 442).

At least

part of this assemblage has pre-1859 origins when there

were no regulations on harvesting undersized shellfish,

as the local Victorian reefs became less

productive, it appears that oysters for the Melbourne market

came increasingly from multiple sources further afield.

Tasmania’s peak period for wild mud oyster fisheries was

1860–1870, the decade after Melbourne’s apex. Likewise,

south-east Queensland Sydney rock oyster fisheries export

trade included dredged oysters from Moreton Bay to

Melbourne in the 1870s (Gillies et al., 2018, table 3;

Thurstan et al., 2020; see also Calder, 1868, p. 8 who

records ‘Melbourne’ as the destination for the Tasmanian

oysters). 

The mud oyster at Mackenzie Street reflects the

closeness of the fisheries, the commonness of this shellfish

as food, and its introduction into Melbourne’s gold rush

economy in commercial quantities. The presence of Sydney

rock oyster demonstrates interstate trade between the east

coast fisheries of New South Wales and Melbourne and the

importation of a second type of oyster to supplement the

supply of, or as an alternative to, the local variety during a

period of high demand. Melbourne’s demand for mud

oysters would contribute to the demise of the local fisheries

and this shellfish as a common component of its food

economy.

Mud oysters were dredged manually

—western port Angus haven’t been commercially harvested in almost 150 years —-source https://www.richardcornish.com.au/blog/flinders-oysters

Me:

-oysters are common, cheap and plentiful and a good source of protein for the poor

-there are oyster stalls to buy fresh shucked oysters and eat on the spot around theatres on Bourke st, there’s sleazy oyster saloons around the brothels in little lons and oyster patties are referred to amongst mince pies as a ready meal.

—-By 1841 the angasi oysters (native mud oysters) were in such demand that a law was passed banning the Boon Wurrung women from harvesting them – source https://www.richardcornish.com.au/blog/flinders-oysters


Green sea snail shell:
Turbo crassus, common name the crass turban

sad but true history of native oysters https://www.richardcornish.com.au/blog/flinders-oysters

19th to 20th century

In the 19th century, oysters were plentiful and cheap; and were sold on almost every street corner in London. Oysters were very popular with the lower class who used oysters as a substitute for expensive beef in stews and soups. One of the most popular Victorian dishes with the lower class was oyster pie.”
source https://simplyoysters.com/oyster-history#:~:text=Oysters%20were%20very%20popular%20with,lower%20class%20was%20oyster%20pie

The archaeology of 19th century oyster consumption in Melbourne – Marshall – 2024 – Archaeology in Oceania – Wiley Online Library
https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/abs/10.1002/arco.5310

It is significant for its use for forty years in the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries as

an oyster saloon, an early type of restaurant which has now disappeared; these were patronised by the less well-
off, and were the forerunner of modern cafes. see: 195 elizabeth st (cbd)
Victorian Heritage Database Report

receipe
RECIPES. (1870, January 15). The Australasian (Melbourne, Vic. : 1864 – 1946), p. 7. Retrieved March 31, 2025, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article138062431

oysters costing 2 shillings a dozen:
THURSDAY MORNING, MAY 16, 1861. (1861, May 16). Geelong Advertiser (Vic. : 1859 – 1929), p. 2. Retrieved April 1, 2025, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article148698610


—identifying mullusc
https://australian.museum/learn/animals/molluscs/turban-snail/

little bivalve
https://portphillipmarinelife.net.au/species/5605

the gruesome display
https://www.aftersalazar.com.au/musings/zdzw8og8pzxlluu1adfvjvnh70xye4

window dressing 1853 – still oysters
https://www.oddhistory.com.au/other-areas-including-melbourne-the-western-district-and-overseas/window-dressing-circa-1853/

description of stands versus oyster saloons
APA citationAT AN OYSTER STALL. (1868, June 6). Leader (Melbourne, Vic. : 1862 – 1918, 1935), p. 8. Retrieved March 31, 2025, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article197427562

great writing
SATURDAY NIGHT IN MELBOURNE. (1863, November 24). The Tarrangower Times and Maldon and Newstead Advertiser (Vic. : 1862 – 1873), p. 3. Retrieved March 31, 2025, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article265366526

THE STATE OF LITTLE BOURKE-STREET. (1862, July 19). Leader (Melbourne, Vic. : 1862 – 1918, 1935), p. 4. Retrieved March 31, 2025, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article196392906

gertrude st oyster and baker
SUBURBAN POLICE. (1867, October 4). The Age (Melbourne, Vic. : 1854 – 1954), p. 6. Retrieved March 31, 2025, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article185505808